I had a few questions about how I’d built
the Dave Graffam models so I figured I’d knock up a little tutorial.
Now nothing says suburbia than a man’s tool
shed so I bought a new model and thought I’d give it a go.
One thing I really like about trying to
create a war gaming table is to have lots of little bits of terrain for models
to hide behind. When you walk around in everyday life it’s amazing to take a
moment and see how cluttered the environment is. Recreating this on the table
top is one of the things that I really enjoy.
So on with the build.
The first photo is of some of the tools I
use.
Most of these are normal for any war gamer
so just a few dot points on the more noteworthy items:
·
Screwdriver:
When you cut out some of the foam board there can be residual foam. The
screwdriver is great at either flattening it or scraping it off using the flat
of the blade.
·
Knife:
Use a new shape blade. It’ll go through foam core a lot better. If the blade is
blunt the foam core won’t cut properly it’ll crush and rip rather than cut.
·
Glue:
Normal cheap stick glue that kids use at school.
·
90
degree set square: You’ll need this later when cutting the base of the model.
The next photo shows the print outs of the
model. It’s a relatively small model, just printed on 2 A4 sheets. Notice I’ve
gone for the brick look, to give it a more modern feel.
The next step is to get them all cut out
and glued onto either the foam board (for walls) or manila folder (for the roof
structure).
Here we are with them all cut out.
This next picture shows one trick that I
use. I use the newspaper as a base and go to town with the glue to make sure that
all the edges are covered. This is one of the essential steps to make sure that
the paper doesn’t de-laminate later on.
I usually start with the roof.
And then I get it under some weight and let
it dry.
And then get the walls mounted onto the
foam core.
Cutting it out is next. Take your time and
get the lines as straight as you can. Normally it takes 2 to 3 cuts. Make the
first one accurate and the second and the third will follow the first and complete
the job.
It doesn’t take long. This model has a few
more parts more than most but normally you’re only cutting out four walls.
Keep a few off cuts for bracing the roof.
Use one of the side walls as a template for
the roof bracing.
A quick cut and then put them aside for the
moment. Don’t worry that they are all a bit different. We’ll trim them up a bit
later.
The foam core is 5mm thick. We need to take
out 5mm of material from all floors and from two of the corners on two of the
walls. I’ve chosen to take the corner cuts out of the long walls.
First measure it up.
Then cut out the excess material. Now you
might be feaking out that you’ll cut straight through the cardboard on the other
side. Be a bit gentle and you’ll be right. Believe it or not I’ve probably made 20-30
buildings in this manner and I’ve never once cut through the cardboard when I
haven’t meant too.
First make one accurate cut, then one a
with a bit more force down through the foam onto the cardboard but not through
it. Then pry the foam off the cardboard by sticking the knife between the two
and pushing the excess material away.
Sometimes there is some foam left over. No
drama. That’s where the screwdriver comes in. Either just flatten the excess
foam or use the blade to dig it out a bit. Go gently and you’ve have no problems.
This next shot shows how I’ve cut down and
I’m part way through pushing off the excess material. On longer cuts, I’ll need
to just push off a bit at a time.
Now even though I’ve shown a few pictures
of this it doesn’t take very long and before you know it you’ve got the lot
done.
Cut out the base and you’re good to start
gluing the structure together. Notice the old adage that your dad taught you
about measuring twice and cutting once. Not once but twice during this build
did I measure up bits wrong but both times by checking again before cutting I
found my error.
A quick check just standing it all together
to make sure that they sit right together and then glue it together using
normal wood glue.
Glue on the little side shed (made the same
way with a floor and the three walls but not back wall, obviously).
Cut out the little and big roof from the
manila folder.
Then fold over the flaps and really really
tightly crush the folds together (to reduce their want to come apart) and then
glue them together and hold tight until the glue dries. Then glue the little
roof to the side room.
Do the same for the main roof but this time
also glue in the braces (which we’ve trimmed a bit now) and don’t glue the roof
on so that it may be removed later to place models in it.
Let it all dry and then see how it fits in
with the other models.
And rotate the shed to see the back a bit.
On this build I went a bit quick so as to
get it all done in about an hour. Normally I’d get a bit of a production line
going and leave glue dry overnight and to black out all the joins before I glue
them together and I’d also print and put in place some interiors. For today
though I figured it was better to just use the plain white to make the pictures
come out a bit better and also to help to get the job done on just the Sunday
afternoon which means that I was able to complete the job this weekend.
Anyway, I hope that helps. Let me know if
you’ve got any queries. Next weekend I might have a go at improving my play mat
which looks a bit ordinary at the moment.
DEW
Good tutorial, but I'd suggest that a decent metal rules should be used when cutting foam (preferably on ethat protects the fingers).
ReplyDeleteI also think that it's so important to use rabbets for corners, butmention of 'edgine' should bemade too, where the white of cut carboard may otherwise show.
Yeah good point Joe. I've got a metal ruler somewhere too you know but I'm not sure where it is at the moment.
DeleteAnother good point on the edging. I was getting a bit short on time last night. Normally I paint all the corners black before I glue them together. I probably should have just banged a bit of dark grey or black paint into the glue before I glued the model together. That works surprisingly well. I'll have to go back and touch them up a bit. Not a big job.
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ReplyDeleteI use pretty much the same methods for my buildings, with 2 differences. I use full sheet labels rather than using regular paper and a gluestick - though I may give that a try.
ReplyDeleteAlso I use a foam core rabbit tool to do the rabbit joints, makes it quick and easy. Here's the one I use:
https://www.amazon.com/Alvin-SC300-Sharp-Cut-Degree-Cutter/dp/B00DIHN0J0/ref=sr_1_1?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1511099459&sr=1-1&keywords=Rabbet+Foam+Board+Cutter
Thanks Ray for the tip on the rabbet tool. That's pretty cool. I didn't know that they existed.
DeleteTank you SO much for this Tim :-)
ReplyDeleteYou'd already got me thinking seriously about having another go at card modelling, and this post has given me the final push!
Just one question - what to you print onto? Normal paper, photo paper, or thin card?
Hi and thanks. Glad it's inspired you a bit.
DeleteIt's just plain photocopy paper.
I thought originally that they wouldn't last, wouldn't be tough enough to work on a war gaming table but most of the card buildings you see on my tables are about 5 or so years old and look as good as when I made them.
This is fantastic, thank you so much for posting this! Sorry for being late to the party, life took over my spare time the last few weeks. I'm really looking forward to building models now!
ReplyDeleteHey Trevor. Glad you liked it mate. These buildings are so easy and cheap to make and I've got heaps of them now. I used to worry about them getting damaged but time has shown that isn't really a big concern. You'll really enjoy it once you get into it and in no time you'll have a great table.
Delete